Havasu Canyon
by Ann Scarvada

I know you’re accustomed to the editor's adventures for “Hike of the Month,” but let me share a special trip to a fantastic place. Join me, Ann Scavarda, my sister, Chris Bonhaus, and friends, Jo Garner and Santo La Corte for a backpacking adventure into Havasu Canyon to see great beauty and enjoy the hospitality of the Havasupai tribe.

The morning is a brisk 38 degrees as we set out from our car to the edge of Hualapai Hilltop in northern Arizona. I’ve discarded everything from my pack that seems extra, yet it still must weigh 50 pounds.

Our 10.5-mile trek through Havasu Canyon begins at Hualapai Hilltop. From the top, we can clearly see the trail as it winds down the steep canyon wall and disappears around a bend. We descend among the red and gold walls into the heart of this desert jewel. We pace off the miles, and the canyon walls narrow and deepen. The diverse geological history of the canyon reveals our nearness to the Grand Canyon. Havasu Creek is one of many that eventually reach the Colorado River and the great depths of the Grand Canyon.

Around mile eight, the view widens, displaying large cottonwood trees along Havasu Creek. Just short of Supai village, we get our first look at the creek’s blue-green water. It feeds the falls that beckon to us from beyond the village. As we cross an old wooden footbridge, we resist the temptation to stop and refresh our tired toes in the cool water.

The temperature is warm at Supai Village and the trail is tiring, soft, deep sand the color of the surrounding canyon walls. We wind our way through small homes and corrals of ponies. These horses earn their living by hauling backpacks, groceries, mail, and people to and from civilization.

Supai village is home to some 200 Native Americans. It has a restaurant, a visitor center-museum, and a small general store. You’ll also find a small church, school, grocery store and even a hotel.

As we check in at the visitor center, a helicopter lands in a nearby field. This routine for transporting people and supplies is commonplace because there are no roads to Supai village.

Each visitor pays a $20 canyon entry fee and a nightly $10 camping fee. For an additional $75, we reserved a mule to carry our four backpacks out of the canyon – money well spent.

Already exhausted, it’s difficult to get going again for the final two miles. We head out of the village on our way to the first waterfall. Here, Havasu Creek splits into the double, graceful, 100-foot high Havasu falls, which flow into aqua colored pools below.

Chris is the first to reach the viewpoint with me and is overcome with emotion at the sight. Seeing Havasu Falls has been one of her lifetime goals, and it has been well earned. I’ve been here many times but am still emotionally struck by its beauty.

We continue to the campgrounds, but continue down the trail to a beautiful little campsite right along side of the creek.

As night creeps through the campground, we find that we have company. One of the many local dogs decides to stay with us for the weekend. This is a common occurrence here.

The next morning, we hike further down the trail to the top of Moony Falls, a single powerful 200-foot high waterfall that also terminates in an aqua colored pool. Chris and Santo aren’t crazy about the steep and exposed climb to the base of Moony Falls, so they wait while Jo and I make the descent. Being a rock climber, caver and all around fun hog, I’m anxious to take Jo down this unique climb.

The descent is steep. We pass through two travertine caves, then turn and face the rock wall for the long chain-protected climb down to a wooden ladder, then finally to the base of the falls. I’m proud of Jo. This was her first experience with climbing and she did great.

Three miles beyond Moony Falls is Beaver Falls and five miles past that is the Colorado River. Our adventure ends at Moony, and we return to Havasu Falls for an afternoon of relaxing poolside.

Backpacking into Havasu Canyon should be at least a three-day trip. You need one day to hike in, one day for playing at the falls, and one day to hike back out. Any shorter of a stay and you’re cheating yourself.

Sunday morning comes too soon, as we break camp and carry our packs out to the staging area where they will be loaded onto the mules. Again, this is money well spent. With lightened loads, now carrying only water, snacks, and cameras, we head out toward the village.

Five hours later, we summit Hualapai Hilltop. Congratulations to all, especially to Santo. I only hope that I can still do this when I’m 66 years old. Also to Jo, for her first backpacking trip.

To reach Havasu Canyon, drive west from Flagstaff on I-40 to Seligman. Take Route 66 to Tribal Road 18, north to Hualapai Hilltop. A permit is required to enter the canyon and advance reservations are recommended. Both can be obtained by calling Havasupai Tourist Enterprise at (928) 448- 2121.

This hike was first featured July 2003 and revised February 2007.